Hello all,
I have recently acquired a book by Hryhoryj Smol'skyj, which has images of ustawky [sleeve insets] of women's chemises from the village of Kosmach in Hutsulshchyna. I have already written one article about Kosmach. Their embroidery is done in cross stitch, in warm yellow-orange-red tones, as shown in the painting above.
More recently, the embroiderers of Kosmach have added more colors to their embroidery, such as blue, violet and burgundy, but have not changed the feel of the overall designs. The embroideries shown do not reflect these recent changes.
The following two photos show how the insets are sewn into the chemises.
Here are the embroidery designs, and the names that they have in the village. Do not take the names too literally.
Pіжкаті Rizhkati - Horned
Пушкаті Pushkati - fingertips
Лекичі Lekychi or Летячі - Flying
Перлові Perlovi - Pearl
Ільчисті Il'chysti - Flower
Рітські Ritski - From the village of Richka
Скрепчисті Skrepchysti -Fiddle
Соснові Sosnovi - Pine tree
Волоськi Voloski - Wallachian
Горiшкові Horishkovi - Nuts
Кучериві Kucheryvi - Curly
Павукові Pavukovi - Spiders
Ключкові Kljuchkovi - Keys or birds flying in a V
Нумерові Numerovi - Numbers
Микулинськi Mykulynski - From the village of Mykulychyn or Курячі лапки Kurjachi lapky - Chicken feet
Безконечник Bezkonechnyk or без вулиць bez vulyts' - Neverending or without roads
Безконечник Bezkonechnyk - Neverending
Сливові Slyvovi - Plums
Черешневі Chereshnevi - Cherries
Скосики Skosyky - Angled or Зубчисті Zubchysti - Toothed
Рожеві Rozhevi - Roses
Дубовий лист Dubovyj lyst - Oak leaf
Кнігинькові Knihynkovi - Princess
Баранкові Barankovi - Rams
Баранкові Barankovi - Rams 2
Дев'ятьпушок Devyat' pushok - Nine fingertips
Качурові Kachurovi - Ducks
Рожнівські Rozhniwski - From the village of Rozhniw
Пушкаті дрібнонькі Pushkati dribnon'ki - Tiny fingertips
Хлопчики Khlopchyky - Boys
Thank you for reading.
Roman K
rkozakand@aol.com
Hryhoriy Smolsky, 'Kosmach Vustavka', L'viw, 2013