Hello all,
I recently finished an article on the costumes of the Dodecanese, and promised that I would return to Rhodes, to give more detail. Rhodes lies in the Dodecanese Island group, and is almost the furthest to the southeast, excepting only Kastellorizo.
It is also the largest island of the group, and is sometimes called the Island of the Knights, as it was home to the Knights of St John of Jerusalem from 1310 to 1522.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhodes
Here is an expandable map of the island.
I am indebted to the local newspaper, I Rodiaki, for much of this information.
Kastellou or Embona
The costume which is by far the most commonly seen is that of three villages in the west of the island, Kastellos, now called Kritinia, Emponas [Embona], and Mandriko. In Rhodes, it is generally called the Kastellou costume, outside of Rhodes it is generally called the Embona costume, or just the Rhodian costume.
The links take you to the articles in Greek. Hit the translate button for bad English.
https://www.rodiaki.gr/article/398202/rodos-gynaikeia-paradosiakh-foresia-kastelloy
The two images at the head of the article are of this costume.
The base of the costume is an embroidered chemise, poukamiso.
Over this is a jumper, usually black or white, occasionally blue, with ribbons sewn onto the lower part of the skirt. There is also embroidered ornament around the neck opening.
There is a sash which is tied around the hips, in some dark color. In many translations it says that the sash is 'knitted', but this is not the case. It is made in sprang. The mistranslation comes from the fact that the Greek word used is a general one, meaning to make cloth in a way that does not use a loom. English does not have such a word, the only words available all refer to a specific technique, knit, crotchet, sprang, braid, finger-weaving, looping, etc. Thus any mention of a technique that does not use a loom has to default to one of these terms, and it usually ends up being 'knitting'. In any case, the sashes here are made in sprang.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprang
As you can see in some of the above images, a short jacket is sometimes worn with this outfit.
Buskins, or soft boots complete the costume.
You will see the buskins replaced by regular black shoes, but only by groups outside of Rhodes.
Jewelry and a kerchief are necessary accessories.
The men's outfit is much the same as in the rest of the Dodecanese
Salakos
https://www.rodiaki.gr/article/396452/rodos-h-gynaikeia-paradosiakh-foresia-ths-salakoy
In Salakos, two different costumes from different periods are remembered. The first is the older, home made village type costume, similar to that of Amponas.
The second is based on the urban styles of the 19th cent. This is considered to be the less formal outfit.
This is a village costume not dissimilar to that of Emponas. Like the last one, this includes pants for the women.
This costume is less well remembered, but here is one surviving example of the formal costume.
And just a couple of the casual costume.
There is one very authentic costume preserved in excellent condition from Fanes.
Details of each costume piece; the chemise
The sash, including detail of the sprang design.
The jacket
The boots
The headdress
With the blue jumper instead
The vraki are embroidered with various patterns.
Over the chemise is worn the white jumper. The only ornamentation is piping around the openings and hem.
The outfit is completed with the silk jacket, sprang sash, and headdress.
A later urban style, less formal outfit also exists.
Just a few images of the local dance group in action.
Kremasti
Ialysos
The urban style costume is better remembered.
The costume of Kattavia
Here is a photo of a chemise from somewhere on Rhodes, so you can see the construction.
